NOTES ON FERRY CHRISTENINGS - PART #1

Madonna name boards ready to go,
in basement workshop. 

Detroit Harbor, Washington Island -

The act of christening a vessel is an ancient tradition, intended to bring good luck, safe voyages, and blessings to those who sail on board.

Not necessary?  Maybe...but who would like to take the chance?

Then, too, there is the awkward choice to go against tradition by denying a vessel to be properly christened, blessed and named.

For centuries this ceremony preceded the launch, a time when the vessel first transferred from land to sea.

Traditions change with the times.  The laying of a keel was once of great shipbuilding importance, not so many years ago, particularly in wooden shipbuilding when the keel member became the basis of construction.  Today's vessels - especially those made of steel or aluminum - can be constructed upside down and  in modules.  There is no recognized singular moment when a full-length keel is accomplished.  Instead, recognition has been given to the first cuts of plates and frames as a noteworthy start to construction.

Monday, June 29th, there will be a christening of the new Washington Island Ferry Line vessel Madonna.  This public recognition of the vessel's completion, and its given name (in this case, it will have religious connotations for the Mother of Jesus...but not for the Paul McCartney song, Lady Madonna, or for the pop singer from Bay City, Michigan, Madonna Louise Ciccone.)

This new ferry's name derives from the schooner of the same name, built by an Irishman, Aylward, in Milwaukee, Wisconsin in 1871.  Quite certainly he took the name in reference to the Holy Mother of Jesus. Not just any "My Lady" but the Lady.

One intended reference in the christening of our Madonna will be a tip of the hat to Ole Christiansen, Norwegian immigrant, and his schooner of the same name.  He bought the shooter from Aylward in 1894.  As a merchant vessel, Christiansen's schooner carried commercial products, lumber and potatoes mostly, between Detroit Harbor and other Lake Michigan ports.

In order to properly honor Ole Christiansen and the original Madonna, we asked his family if they could nominate a representative to perform the christening.  We received a "Yes" from Sarah Maines-Bandiera of British Columbia, in early March.

Certain hurdles needed to be overcome, including setting a date when the ferry might be finished and ready to christen.   After it would be launched, delivered and then moored in Detroit Harbor, it would await christening before placement into regular service.  That was tentatively planned for the end of May, or early June, so we hoped.

Then Covid-19 came along and it no longer seemed prudent to plan a public christening event, or to ask Sarah to travel a long distance for a short ceremony.  Pandemic travel rules created more hurdles.  We both agreed to reconsider, and instead we named Sarah as our Honorary Guest for the christening.  Then we began looking closer to home for another candidate who might perform the christening.  (The name of our stand-in will soon be publicly revealed.)

Sarah Maines-Bandiera, great granddaughter of Ole
Christiansen, graciously accepted our offer to christen
the new Madonna...until the pandemic made that an 
improbable plan. (photo by Sarah)

There is also the matter of finishing this vessel completely, to the required and agreed upon standards, fit for service and acceptable to the U. S. Coast Guard federal guidelines and owner expectations.

As the weeks passed by in spring, the estimated delivery date was pushed further back into June.  This later date wasn't of great concern to us, because we wanted the vessel to be right and not rushed or lacking in completeness.

Here we are on June 23, with a soft "maybe" for sea trials later this week.  Current status centers around a steering glitch: three steering options under two, completely separate, systems.  It is complicated, and not easily resolved.  The answer may require more parts (and expertise), with lead time in order to rectify.

One way or another, whether the ferry Madonna comes home this coming week or not, we will join Fincantieri Bay Shipbuilding workforce Monday in a combination ceremony.

There will be two parts to this event:  one will be to recognize the Bay Shipbuilding workforce for their achievement in turning out a great product, the ferry Madonna, that will sail in these local waters for the next half-century or more.  The second will be to christen this vessel, a formal, prescribed occasion in which we ask for God's blessings on this vessel, its crew, passengers and cargo in years to come.

Sprinkled throughout this blog and one to follow we'll post a number of photos recounting christening events for Washington Island Ferry Line vessels.

A synopsis of past WIFL christening events

The first ferry built and launched for WIFL, Arni and Carl Richter owners, was the Griffin, built at Krauss Kraft in Kewaunee, Wisconsin in 1946.  I've never come across a christening photo for this ferry, only pre-launch snapshots of owner Arni Richter standing on the shore with the Griffin in the background.  I believe Mary Richter had a hand in naming this ferry, as she was an avid follower of local history.

Then in 1950 the C. G. Richter, named for Carl Godfrey Richter, was built by the Sturgeon Bay Ship Building and Dry Dock yard. (This yard property was taken up 20 years by Bay Shipbuilding Corporation in 1970.)  Just prior to the C. G. Richter launch, cousins Carol Richter and Jeannie Leasum shared christening honors.

1950 christening of C. G. Richter prior to launch:
(top)  Maggie and Carl Richter; Carol Richter and 
Jeannie Leasum; Arni and Mary Richter; Margaret Leasum; 
Em andPaul Richter.  (unknown photographer / WIFL files)

Ten years later, in 1960, on nearly the same waterfrontage in Sturgeon Bay, Richter twins Adele and Estelle did the honors for the new ferry Voyageur.  A professional photographer (perhaps Herb Reynolds) captured the moment the champagne bottle smashed against the bow, prior to launch, a classic in WIFL "christening annals." As far as we know, only family members, and perhaps a few friends, were on hand for this occasion.  The Voyageur was launched following the christening that day.  It would be weeks before the ferry was finished, at homeport, and ready for operation.

Adele (L) and Estelle Richter performed the Voyageur
christening at the SBSB & DD yard prior to launch
in 1960.  (Herb Reynolds / WIFL archives)

In 1970 WIFL shifted from a private christening ceremony in the shipyard on launch day to a public ceremony held at the ferry dock in Detroit Harbor, Washington Island.  The occasion that brought about this change was the 100th Anniversary Celebration of the first Icelanders coming to Washington Island.  The new ferry's name, Eyrarbakki, would draw attention to this Island's many familial ties with Iceland.  Gertrude Andersen, then 94, was considered the first child born here of Icelandic immigrant parents, and she broke the bottle that day.

Gertrude Andersen swinging bottle against 
king post of Eyrarbakki in 1970.

Special invited guests had connections with the Icelandic consul in Chicago.  Well water from Eyrarbakki, Iceland was flown for the christening, rather than using champagne. It was a meaningful day for the Island, and it was also a great day for Arni and Mary Richter who sought to expand and improve Washington Island's tourism through marketing.  This Iceland tie was both genuine and unique. (This year's plans were dashed by the Covid-19 pandemic, but we remind readers of that christening occasion, just as we now highlight the 150th Anniversary Celebration in 2020.)

Estelle Richter took this launch photo of Hull #709 at
the Manitowoc Corp. Bay Shipbuilding yard in
1970.  This vessel was among the first to be
completed by the Bay Ship yard after the move
to Sturgeon Bay from Manitowoc.

The acceleration in tourism traffic would soon include fishing boats on trailers, motor homes, and larger vehicles in general - vans and pickup trucks - and the timing seemed right in 1979 to build a new ferry with increased dimensions over the Eyrarbakki of 1970.  Arni fondly looked at the photos of vessels sailed as ferries by Robert Noble across Sturgeon Bay, and he decided to name the new ferry for that first mechanically propelled ferry in Door County, Robert Noble.  Of course, there was also the unforgettable story of the struggle of Noble who tried to cross the Door at the onset of winter in 1863, and who lost his fingers and lower legs to frostbite.

The new Robert Noble was completed at Peterson Builders, Inc., ion June of 1979, and it heralded a  shift to a different builder, due in part to the building boom in large bulk carriers being constructed at the Manitowoc Bay Shipbuilding yard.  They had no more building room, and no need for a small ferry contract, whereas PBI was just winding down naval contracts and was open to general commercial work.

Harrison Noble, in his early 90s, spoke before
christening the ferry named for his uncle, Robert.
(photographer not known.  WIFL files)

The ferry came home to Detroit Harbor in early June for the christening.  After a bit of sleuthing, we located Robert's nephew, Harrison Noble, a retired County Agent in his early 90s, who lived in the Stevens Point area.  Harrison came to Washington Island, and he became the first male to christen one of our ferries, the new 90-foot Robert Noble.

Arni Richter, Ferry Line president, with
author on day of christening in 1979.

Light drizzle fell, but despite uncooperative weather that day, dozens of people turned out to witness the occasion.  A photo was taken of guests gathered that afternoon on the main deck, looking upward toward the speaker, and it provides a real challenge to the memory.  Naming as many people as possible in the crowd is a fun activity. (I'll add that photo when I find it!)

Mary and Arni Richter are between Mert Dedecker,
Mary's sister, and Bob Thompson of Tim Graul
Marine Design, naval architects for the
Washington.  (Arni Orman photo)

We'll take one more event before breaking the story into a second part.

Peterson Builders was awarded the contract for another new ferry, launched in 1989.  The Washington would be larger in deck and passenger capacity than any previous WIFL ferry, a fact that remains true today for automobile loads of a certain mix.

She's not a winter ferry, as she doesn't have the necessary structure or power for ice breaking, but it has been used more and more into late fall-to-freeze-up, and again in early spring.

This ferry was launched in late April, and it arrived on the Island in early June.   Our daughter, Evy, at age 13, christened the new ferry that year.  One of the notable events that day was the Boy Scout Troop from Maplewood, under scoutmaster  Dennis LeFevre, that led the Pledge of Allegiance that day.

Boy Scout troop from Maplewood led guests in
the Pledge of Allegiance prior to the christening.
(Al Belz Jr. photo)

That christening crowd was the largest to date, with many people onboard, on the pier, and a few in their boats nearby.  The weather was beautiful.  Congressman Toby Roth of Appleton, who was good friends with Islander Sarah Magnusson, sat next to her that day, on folding chairs set up on the main deck.

Evy Purinton broke the champagne bottle
against the Washington's kingpost in 1989.
Future ferry captain, Town Chair, County
Board Supervisor and father of four,
Joel Gunnlaugsson, stands in middle
background.
(photographer unknown)

In another seven years, PBI would be out of business.  It would be a number of years after that before the level of seasonal ferry traffic, our need for a new winter replacement ferry, and our ability to handle the cost of a more expensive ice breaking vessel, would converge to a point where a new ferry contract would be signed in 2002.

(To be continued...).  Dick Purinton  

Icelandic Celebration 2020

Husid, the Danish trading center's home for its manager 
in years gone by, when Iceland was a Danish protectorate.
 Museum Director Lydur Palsson and staff members greeted
 us as their guests during our 2015 visit.  The IcelandicCelebration2020
 will make this Eyrarbakki visit a trip highlight.
Photo was taken in early June, similar to the time period
contemplated for the Sesquicentennial Tour.

Detroit Harbor -

The year 2020 will be the 150th anniversary of four young Icelanders arriving on Washington Island.

The area encircled in green refers to the region in Iceland in which
we concentrated our travels during a 2015 trip.  Both Reykjavik and
Eyrarbakki lie within this circle, an approx. 2 hour drive apart.

Already established here were residents - farmers, fishermen laborers and merchants - who were of German, Irish, Norwegian, Danish, English, and other national origins.  But, the fact that this was the first settlement of Icelanders in North America made it significant for those who followed.

During the ensuing four decades, 1870 to 1913, approximately 20% of the Icelandic population emigrated to North America.  Some came to Washington Island, as we know, but many more settled in western Minnesota, northeastern North Dakota, and the Red River Valley area near Winnipeg, "little Iceland" in Gimli, Manitoba, and so forth.

Yet, the establishment of homes, farms and businesses here on this island by Icelandic pioneers was significant, and it continues to be recognized as such by today's Icelandic historians who are eager to trace their family tree to descendants in North America.

Historical photo of Eyrarbakki at the turn of the last century when
stone and turf dwellings were commonplace. Eyrarbakki then was a leading
seaport for southern Iceland, and besides exporting wool and codfish
this seaport is where first emigrants departed by sailing vessel for Denmark,
then on to North America, in the early 1870s.   

The 100th Anniversary of that Icelandic immigration event was ably observed here in 1970.  There were Icelandic officials in attendance, and descendants of Icelandic immigrants.  Gertrude Andersen, first-born child to Icelandic immigrants in 1874, was 96 when she struck a bottle of wellwater against the steel of the brand new ferry, Eyrarbakki.   That water was drawn from a well in Eyrarbakki, then flown from Reykjavik to America by Iceland Air for the occasion.  A fish boil brought also people together for (we imagine) a few toasts and speeches.

Gertrude Andersen christened the new ferry Eyrarbakki
 in 1970.  Grandmother of Christine Andersen, she was
born in 1874, first child of Icelandic immigrants born
on Washington Island.

A sperm whale tooth, carved with the likenesses of early Icelandic settler Gudmander Gudmundson, and his wife, Gudrun Ingvarsdottir, was presented to the "People of Washington Island" from the Icelandic Association of Chicago.  Haldor Einarsson, best known for his furniture carvings for C. H. Thordarson, carved the likenesses of the Island's early Icelandic settlers.  Einarsson had by then returned to his homeland of Iceland after a career based in Chicago as a wood carver.  (photo of this commemorative gift is attached; you may see the actual item on display in summer at the Jacobsen Museum at Little Lake.)

Water drawn from a well in Eyrarbakki was flown by
Iceland Air to New York, then to Chicago, and driven to
Washington Island for the christening of the
ferry Eyrarbakki.

All of the above is background for why a 150th Anniversary Celebration ought to be seriously considered by the Island Community, and by anyone connected by heritage or simply
personal interest in strengthening our ties with Iceland.

In order to begin planning, a small number of us have met as volunteers of an unofficial steering committee to determine the best ways in which this event might be honorably celebrated.  We've come up with a broad outline, knowing that more details will need to be filled in as we proceed, and believing that more individuals will express interest and ideas as participants.  Today's blog, then, becomes just the first of many communications. We encourage others to digest the information and the possibilities, while considering their inclusion in 2020 planning...to whatever extent possible.

Fortunately, we've had direct (email) communication with several Icelandic individuals, friends and relatives, with whom we are well acquainted.  We also respect their passion regarding the 1870 emigration that began from Eyrarbakki.  They've also traveled to Washington Island and know us.   Through them I've been able to pin down timing for key events.

In addition (and here lies perhaps the most exciting and potentially significant part of the plan), we believe there will be interest from a group of Islanders to travel to Iceland in early June of 2020.  Likewise, from indications we've received from our Icelandic counterparts, a group of Icelanders may then travel to Washington Island in early October of 2020, rounding out the 2020 celebration experience.

Such an exchange would symbolize our mutual interest in a 2020 celebration.  It would further help to establish - or reestablish - ties with the Icelandic nation that might further ongoing, future relationships.

Gudmunder Gudmundson and his wife,
Gudrun (Ingvarsdottir)

Carved sperm whale tooth, gift to the Island
people in 1970.
Carved by Haldor Einarsson, Iceland.

Following, then, in Q & A format, are some of the particulars to consider.  I will anticipate there will be chat discussions, questions being asked, and ideas to aid in this celebration.  We - members of the initial steering committee - will try our best to keep up with your questions and comments, and to help organize various ideas.

1.  When would the exchanges take place?

By initial agreement with our Icelandic counterparts, we anticipate a contingent of Washington Island folks traveling to Iceland June 9 & 10, 2020.   That is when actual travel to Eyrarbakki, and perhaps a gathering of sorts with Icelandic relatives, might take place.  Of course, travelers will want to see sights and do things, either on their own, or as a group.

We would be hosts to a group from Iceland in early October, with planned activities to be held in the mid-week, Oct. 6 & 7.  A variety of events can be planned for their visit, including local points of interest, and opportunities for formal and informal exchange.

A walk along the seawall in Eyrarbakki, which was Iceland's
leading port for export of wool and fish in 1800s.  Later, this emigration
movement included citizens from other regions and
other Icelandic seaports.

2.  Where do I sign up to go to Iceland?

You will travel as an individual, or as a family, or group of friends, by making your own flight and lodging arrangements.

One possible scenario:  Fly to Iceland on Sunday (arriving early Monday morning in Iceland).  Take a day to acclimate, catch up on jet lag, visit points of interest in Reykjavik.  Gather and meet up with others at an appointed location, then travel as a group to Eyrarbakki on either June 9 or 10.  (TBD) Participate in a group dinner one evening.  Visit with Icelandic relations, either on your own or as a group, when such is organized.   Sightseeing should also be high on your list, and there are many tour opportunities,. both in Reykjavik and for the outlying countryside, to points of historical and cultural interest, to museums and the like.   But, we wish to emphasize that being a Washington Island representative to Iceland remains the key purpose for this trip.  We expect to further guidance from our hosts as more plans are developed.

Note:  Not to be discounted are the services of a professional travel agent.  However, for many, this becomes an extra step.  We as a committee of volunteers are not capable of providing travel booking services as would such a professional, or one's self!

At a certain point, by early July, we'd like to know:    Who wishes to travel to Iceland as part of the 2020 Celebration Group?    Who wishes to help host Icelandic guests on Washington Island?
Who is interested in both, but not likely to participate in either event?   We'd like to get an idea of what our planning and obligations might entail as we move ahead.   But, there's plenty of time, still.

Gulfoss, largest waterfall in Europe, discharges tons of
glacier meltwater each hour.

3.  Can I then also be an Island hosts to receive Icelandic guests in October?

Yes, this is an equally integral part of this celebration exchange.

Aside from visiting points of interest such as Rock Island, museums, Stavkirke, the Wickman home, etc., we anticipate hosting our Icelandic guests to at least one, if not more, social events, where personal exchanges of "Welcome" can be made, official proclamations or gifts presented, and perhaps enjoyment of local entertainment based around the Icelandic immigration theme.

Our Icelandic guests will likewise need to determine their travel dates, their places of lodging, and so forth.  We can assist them with suggestions.  We have no ideas as to numbers of visitors expected at this date because planning is still in its earliest stages.

4.  How can I determine my Icelandic lineage?

In Iceland there is great emphasis placed on genealogy, and they have a number of available websites that may prove very helpful (www.icelandicroots.com is one example).  Our Island Archives is about to embark on updating our genealogy records.   An informational meeting to get this effort started will be held in early summer, and not only for families with Icelandic ties, but all Island families, in order to extend the base of knowledge in our Archives.  

Above all, anyone of Icelandic heritage ought to update their family information soon.  This, in turn, will help tie you to your ancestral roots in Iceland.  Who knows?  You may find a new cousin living  here in America, or in Iceland.

5.  What about funding for this whole thing?

At this point, the planning and execution is by individuals, out-of-pocket.  We think this is the way to go because today people can easily access travel information by the internet and create their own plans.   The variations in personal plans, credit card incentives, travel and lodging wishes, is more than a volunteer is willing to undertake.  You will likely find help and advice via internet, however, as you begin this process.

As for presentations to acknowledge and thank our Icelandic hosts, and later, to present our meaningful expressions of thanks to our Icelandic visitors, we perceive offering gifts that are meaningful but that do not necessarily require major expense:   framed photographs;  a momento of an immigrant family;  a dinner for all that could be pot-luck, or out-of-pocket, these ideas are to be encouraged.

Entertainment ideas have already been proposed, to include local talent and participants (perhaps members of the Island Players), slide photos from the Island Archives, etc.    If specific opportunities are identified for sponsorship, we would not hesitate to solicit financial aid from local businesses or service organizations.

As with travel to Iceland by members of the Washington Island contingent, we would encourage  personal visits with Icelandic relatives and friends.

We'd like the involvement of our Island school children as an educational and cultural opportunity.  Ideas are also welcomed to further this goal.

Dramatic walk in Thingvellir, between rifts in the Atlantic and
Europeantectonic plates.  Ruins of "booths," or shelters, at site of
oldest republic in the world lie in foreground.

6.  So, I'm interested in going to Iceland.  How do I start my planning?

There's no single way to go about this, but if you're thinking of joining in the Iceland travel portion of this celebration, you might begin by blocking out that second week of June, 2020.  Check out air travel, the options and approximate pricing. We think Chicago may be the easiest airport for departure, with Iceland Air being a major carrier, but Minneapolis is another option.  There are also frequent flights out of Boston  (only 3+ hours flight to Iceland.)  Cheaper seating may be available on "second tier" airlines, but beware of smaller planes, tighter seating, and extras for luggage, plus more commonly delayed departure times, etc.

As for lodging, there are many hotels in Reykjavik, also Air BnB's.  By checking back and forth with friends and relations who are interested in this trip, you may open up new ideas.   You might want to join in the same lodging location... or not.

All of this planning begins some 15 months in advance of the proposed June travel date, which ought to be time enough to consider your options carefully, and to correspond with others for advice.

        *       *      *     *

In the meantime, let us recommend introductory experiences through film, books and internet that might help you in making choices (and to familiarize yourself with Icelandic culture for when you become the host).

Two films we highly recommend that give you a good flavor of Iceland:
      Rams                          ....  on Netflix   
      Of Horses and Men ...   Amazon Prime

A book that captures the struggles, and the spirit, of Iceland's farmers in the years leading up to WWI, by Nobel Prize winning author Haldor Laxness:   Independent People
                                        Hannah Kent:      Burial Rites
                                        Nancy Brown:      A good horse has no color

Many Icelandic sagas exist, tougher reading for sure, but interesting in cultural and historical background, from the perspective of 8-900 years in the past, as Iceland developed identity as an island nation.

Evy Beneda has several Icelandic blog sites that she follows and recommends, including the following:

     Icelandwithaview.com
     iheartreykjavik.net

Finally, stay tuned to this blog.  Give your email information to (Bill Schott & me) at this email address:     IcelandicCelebration2020@gmail.com    This will put you on the mailing/notification listing for pertinent information.

In mid-May (date to be determined) we'll plan another public function to discuss plan developments, and to view slides of Iceland, or other information that will educate and invigorate your planning.  All are welcome, and you need not be an Icelandic descendent to enjoy and participate in these events!

-  Dick Purinton.        [NOTE ONE:   I was recently notified that the email address I provided in the next-to-last paragraph for celebration notifications did not work.   I made the correction 3/7/19.   Thanks for the several comments that pointed out my error.       SECOND NOTE:  I should not be quick to discount the aid and services of travel agents, for we used a great source, the Icelandic Farm Holidays Association, when we planned for our family trip in 2015.  In my next posting, I'll give some particulars based on our very positive experience working with an Icelandic agent of this tourism cooperative.]